Thawing hide

[RTF]

Watch your room temp when thawing. Let it thaw in a cool area natural. The mud room, a garage perhaps a basement. Good luck !

[ILBIGBUCKS]

hey it doesnt matter how you let your hide thaw just keep it off of concrete to prevent hair slippage.

[RTF]

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hey it doesnt matter how you let your hide thaw just keep it off of concrete to prevent hair slippage.

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I learn something new everyday

[fisherguy]

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hey it doesnt matter how you let your hide thaw just keep it off of concrete to prevent hair slippage.

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Just wondering, how does that prevent hair slippage? never heard that before.

[RTF]

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If 50 degrees to hot to let it thaw in? If so what is right? Also i 50 about the right temp for the whole tanning process?

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50 is fine for thawing out.

When you do the tanning process such as pickling and tanning a room temp of 65 to 75 is ideal.

[RTF]

You did not let it soak in the Lysol solution which is ok. You did exactly what you where told to do. Cape Fear and Magis bring up good points about the lysol issue. All soaps no matter what they say will raise the PH levels. I can see where this can be interpreted in the wrong direction in my article. I think an adjustment needs to be made.

It's the inbetween the pickle and tanning solution where you want the hide drip free before adding it to the tan. I get the best results when done like this.

[RTF]

7 days total should be good enough. You want the hide plump and white. With gloves on push your thumb into the flesh side, like you are trying to pinch the hide. If your thumb print indentation stays in the hide, she's a pickled. But a good 7 days no matter what should be used.

Another thing, get a PH tester. I use strips. Hardware stores, and places that sell pools carry them. You always want a ph of 2 or lower in the pickle solution. At least I do. the lower the better. Not only better, but safer.

Cape Fear said it best. You want that hide thirsty. that is the best description I have ever heard. Good job Cape Fear !

[RTF]

If you followed the instructions and mixed it ll well with the salt and did not go over the amount of water your good to go. I exclusively use the same stuff all the time and have never had a problem unless the hide had a problem to begin with. I dont know what PH papers you got but it's not reading the solution right. the papers should be red when dipped.

In my article, I dont get into PH too much because the chemical you recieive is the right amount for a full deer hide. Actually you receive more then enough.

BTW you can now print out a print version of the article on the main site from page 3.

[RTF]

I will look into it and fix it if need be. In the mean time I will pm you the full version.

[RTF]

It's been fixed

[RTF]

One thing when refleshing. Unless it is evident that you need to do it, dont do it. Also be sure the hide is not too wet as the hairs my pull out very easy on the fleshing beam. the most vulunarable time for a hide to start loosing hair is when it is wet, no matter what you got on it (pickle/tan) The epidermis is plumped and the hair folicles are somewhat easy to pull out in this stage. So be carefull !

[RTF]

At this point there should be no mat or fat on the hide. that is what your first fleshing job is for. The second fleshing job is to remove that thin clear membrane attatched to the flesh side. I have played with removing it and leaving it on and have not seen a major difference in my tans, except for the fact that the hide may become more soft if the membrane is removed.