Help with turkey decoys !

**jesse8953** · 02-12-2009, 05:40 PM

This is my 1st year turkey hunting.I bought different things over the years but never went. I have been practicing my mouth call,I got a box call and going to buy a slate call.I have a vest a new remington sps 12 gauge. I have a jake decoy from flambeau. What are the best working decoys! I would like some input on what decoy to get and how many.Do I need to get some hen decoys? Or do I need to get a peepin tom & penny decoy?

**pointing_dogs_rule** · 02-13-2009, 08:27 AM

Start cheap. Nothing fancy is needed. Get one or two of the collapsable hens and one collapsable jake decoy. Birds respond to different set-ups as the season progresses, maturity of the birds and flock size.

good luck to all
the dog

**dlriggins** · 02-13-2009, 10:29 PM

I personally use two deeks I usually will place the hen out about 30 to 40 yards depending on situation and put the jake about 10 yards closer as a rule a tom will place himself between the two allowing you to take a 20 to 30 yard shot some cuts and purrs to start with and after some time if no tom answers let out a gobble and watch.

**Covehnter** · 02-13-2009, 11:48 PM

The brand of decoy is all personal preference, there are lots to choose from . . . . Flambeau, Carrylite, Sceery, Feather Flex, etc. etc. I myself use a Sceery which are the "blow up" style. I like it (i carry one hen) b/c when deflated it is so compact and takes up no room in my vest. If you plan on setting up decoys everytime you work a bird and will be setting up in a haste these may not be the answer for you b/c you do have to blow them up which takes a minute or so. But when i use a decoys it's often when i'm going to sit it out a spell so i'm in no hurry, thats why the particular brand works for me. In the past i've used Flambeau (which had material issues, think they've fixed that now) and feather flex, both served their purpose. I also like the feeding position versus the upright style, more relaxed feel for the hen.

As for the setup, i would not advise setting up your decoys any further than 20-25 yards. This is optimal shooting range and also gives you a little buffer zone in case the bird decides to hang back a little which they will sometimes do. . . this still puts him at 35 yards give or take. Thats head dancin' distance. And a reminder. . . a hot headed tom with want to come face to face with the jake decoy.

**Dakota** · 02-13-2009, 11:54 PM

Personally, I prefer the Flambeu decoys. A good tactic to use with decoys is to set the hen/hens about 30-35 yards away from you and facing away from you as well. Then set up your jake 25 yards away from you and facing in your direction. In most instances, the gobbler/gobblers will completely ignore the hens and go running past them to drive off the insolent jake that is intruding on his/their territory. That's when you blast them.

Dakota

**elnor** · 02-19-2009, 09:13 PM

I'm a fan of inflatable dekes and use them similarly to Covehnter.

I prefer the Cherokee Sports decoys. I have some of the older, all inflatable decoys from previous years (see item IK-227951 at Cabelas.com for one four deke set); I've killed four toms using these dekes in recent years, sometimes with just one hen out, sometimes with one hen and one jake.

I received some of their newer, molded head inflatable decoys for Christmas (see items IK-228942 and IK-228943 at Cabelas for examples of those). I'm looking forward to giving them a try this season.

Whatever you get, be sure you know how to get them set up quickly...there's nothing like a gobblin flock in the pre-dawn to make you all fumbly fingers and weak-in-the-lungs when trying to set up decoys!

**woodsman1977** · 02-21-2009, 10:15 PM

I use the "strutting" type decoys, The primos B mobile has been my best hunting companion since buying him a couple years ago.

Him along with a feeding style hen work dynamite.

Scouting is the number one thing.....scout, scout, scout

**boparks** · 03-06-2009, 01:21 PM

I tend to like the foam hen decoys. Thye're easy to carry and if you're not using them they provide extra back padding in your vest.

I also make my own decoy stakes.
I take 3/8 to 1/2 inch dowel rods and cut them into 2' long pieces and whittle / sharpen the end. I then stain them with Mimwax or whatever brand. They are easier to stick into the grond in most case and you can have extras for double staking on windy days.

I stretch a rubber band around them so that I don't sound like a drummer if i'm running to a bird. Be care ful not to fall on them though.

I have used Primos B-Mobile which has worked almost too well at times. It seems to screen out younger birds and often brings birds in faster than you would believe.
I mean I'm used to watching birds take forever to come into hen decoys and not running in like they sometimes do with MR B-Mobile.
He's a pain to acrry but well worth the effort at times especially on days birds aren't gobbling or during afternoon hunts when birds might come in quiet.

Bobby

**snapper** · 03-06-2009, 05:44 PM

a hot headed tom with want to come face to face with the jake decoy.

I agree with that...this is why I prefer to have my jake deek facing me. When he squares off with the deek...he'll usally be in strut. So with his tail fan spread out...he can't see behind him...gives you a little room for error (movement) to get the bead on him when its time to drop the hammer.

Good luck!

TennesseeTurkey · 03-06-2009, 07:28 PM

I killed all my birds with featherflex's but Im buying a she-mobile and B-mobile this year....

**Adjam5** · 03-07-2009, 11:27 AM

We use the B mobile with a real tail fan and man does it bring 'em in! I started with the foam dekes and they seem lose their paint after a few season of rolling and folding them and they just never took the good shape again. The B mobile is a heavier duty deke that is very life like.
Just please be careful when carrying, and setting up those dekes. Some of those dekes are soo real looking they can fool a hunter and accidents could happen. It would not be a bad thing if you carried your dekes in a orange bag or completely out of sight during transport to eliminate ANY possible bad stuff.
Good luck!

**The Kid** · 03-09-2009, 12:54 PM

i would just start off with a hen decoy,, to be honest i've not had a whole lot of luck with my b -mobile,, umm i don't recall what the name of my hen decoy is but its a bobble head if that helps,, last year i had really good luck with it.. in certain situations a deke is the right call and sometimes its not,, try um and see how you like them,, and let us know how they work for ya!!

**Rhino** · 03-09-2009, 01:47 PM

I hardly ever use decoys anymore but here's my $.02 from prior experience.

Decoys that look like the real deal will work better than those that don't. Decoys that have some motion will as a general rule work better than statue type decoys. Why? Turkeys just don't stay still. Their neck/heads are almost constantly moving. The only exception to neck/head movement is a gobbler in full strut. Most decoys will work some of the time provided they don't reflect sunlight. Some are so bad about light reflection they will shine in sunlight like smooth metal. That's not natural and will spook turkeys. To determine if they do, check them out at a store first before buying them. If you already own a decoy that reflects sunlight your choices are (1) only use them in in low light/heavy overcast conditions; (2) buy some of the turkey feathered wraps that are available to cover them; (3) get rid of it in favor of one that doesn't reflect light.

Keep in mind some gobblers are and those that aren't can easily become shy to decoys. Also some subspecies of turkeys are more prone to being decoy shy than others.

**twowetdogz** · 03-14-2009, 07:23 PM

Originally Posted by Rhino

I hardly ever use decoys anymore but here's my $.02 from prior experience.

Decoys that look like the real deal will work better than those that don't. Decoys that have some motion will as a general rule work better than statue type decoys. Why? Turkeys just don't stay still. Their neck/heads are almost constantly moving. The only exception to neck/head movement is a gobbler in full strut. Most decoys will work some of the time provided they don't reflect sunlight. Some are so bad about light reflection they will shine in sunlight like smooth metal. That's not natural and will spook turkeys. To determine if they do, check them out at a store first before buying them. If you already own a decoy that reflects sunlight your choices are (1) only use them in in low light/heavy overcast conditions; (2) buy some of the turkey feathered wraps that are available to cover them; (3) get rid of it in favor of one that doesn't reflect light.

Keep in mind some gobblers are and those that aren't can easily become shy to decoys. Also some subspecies of turkeys are more prone to being decoy shy than others.

I've never heard the subspecies distinction on being decoy shy. Which ones?