Could stand a little more heat.

**redkneck** · 12-15-2010, 02:32 PM

Z71 has good temp on the gage (about 190) but could use a little more heat in the cab. Is there a heater valve on there like my old ford explorer?

**92xj** · 12-15-2010, 02:44 PM

I doubt it, check your antifreeze level, if its low add some. If its full, pull into driveway, detach the two rubber hoses going into the fire wall, spray water hose in one and stand away from the second one as water will shoot out. See if any nastyness comes out of there. If it does keep flushing till its clear, reinstall, turn on vehicle, add more antifreeeze.

**wtnhunt** · 12-15-2010, 03:56 PM

They do need flushed from time to time John, was my first thought too. Would follow Ben's suggestion. Have used the prestone flush kits here in the past if that ends up being necessary.

**redkneck** · 12-16-2010, 07:10 AM

I wondered that myself. Was hoping for answers that didn't involve much work.

haha!

**92xj** · 12-16-2010, 07:42 AM

Originally Posted by redkneck

I wondered that myself. Was hoping for answers that didn't involve much work.

haha!

That right there is about 7 minutes of work. Two hose clamps, turn water on, hold hose to a heater core hose, stand there, rest belly on fender. turn hose off, tighten two hose clamps, fill radiator with anitfreeze, done.

**redkneck** · 12-16-2010, 08:53 AM

Originally Posted by 92xj

That right there is about 7 minutes of work. Two hose clamps, turn water on, hold hose to a heater core hose, stand there, rest belly on fender. turn hose off, tighten two hose clamps, fill radiator with anitfreeze, done.

But you're not too familiar with the POS, rotten, crappy, yellow plastic connectors GM started putting on the hose connections that break when you disconnect them and they want too much $ for them at the dealer.

....... but... I did cut those off, lol.

**92xj** · 12-16-2010, 09:50 AM

Originally Posted by redkneck

But you're not too familiar with the POS, rotten, crappy, yellow plastic connectors GM started putting on the hose connections that break when you disconnect them and they want too much $ for them at the dealer.

....... but... I did cut those off, lol.

I never keep factory hose clamps on hoses. Every single one that I touch comes off one way or another and goes back on with a metal screw style. Break them off and replace with something better.

**redkneck** · 12-16-2010, 10:20 AM

Originally Posted by 92xj

I never keep factory hose clamps on hoses. Every single one that I touch comes off one way or another and goes back on with a metal screw style. Break them off and replace with something better.

It's much worse than that. GM went to a quick connect style and actually has a plastic hose barb in the thing! The entire hose breaks off, or did on me when I was hammering it on a wet clay hill.

**redkneck** · 12-16-2010, 10:22 AM

These things SUCK!

**92xj** · 12-16-2010, 10:26 AM

Dont touch the clip part. Just pull the hose clamp off with pliers. Pull rubber hose off clip and replace plier style clamp with metal screw in, or better yet, look at the other end of the hose.
heck, cut the hose in the middle and get a male male adaptor to put back together if you really dont want to touch any of the clips. It doesnt matter how you do it, just force water in one hose and see what comes out of the other.

Also, you should be able to break the rest of the plastic clip off leaving just a metal line with a flair in it sticking out, slide hose over and clamp using a hose clamp.

**redkneck** · 12-16-2010, 01:34 PM

I fought that one a long time ago.

The solution is to take a hacksaw blade and carefully cut the plastic crap off and you'll be down to two smooth tubes that will accommodate your hose and a hose clamp, no barbs, but no problem holding it on either.

**wtnhunt** · 12-16-2010, 02:26 PM

Just wait til you have a hose fitting break off in the intake, John.

Getting the things out can be a lot more trouble than it should be. Piss poor design on those on gm's part imo. Those slide type clamps they use on the radiator hoses are terrible too, at least for me with trying to reach down in and get my hands in and on the clamps, snap on has a clamp tool just for that that is pretty darned handy.

**Shaun_300** · 12-16-2010, 06:13 PM

With the heater core do like Ben said if you can't get them off, cut the hoses in the middle and just get 2 male connectors to join them back together. Yes I know, really stupid GM! If the flushing doesn't work dump some CLR in one hose until it comes out the other, let it sit for a few hours then flush it out again.

William, he's lucky to have a newer truck with the LS style 5.3L in it. No hose fittings to worry about there. No coolant leaks from the intake gaskets either since they're a dry intake, only air comes through those. Those heater hose fittings on the Vortec 350s are brutal. They make special tools that come with a drill, tap etc to repair them quickly. If you don't have the tools it can be an aggravating process! You definitely run out of swear words doing that job.

**wtnhunt** · 12-17-2010, 08:10 AM

Originally Posted by Shaun_300

With the heater core do like Ben said if you can't get them off, cut the hoses in the middle and just get 2 male connectors to join them back together. Yes I know, really stupid GM! If the flushing doesn't work dump some CLR in one hose until it comes out the other, let it sit for a few hours then flush it out again.

William, he's lucky to have a newer truck with the LS style 5.3L in it. No hose fittings to worry about there. No coolant leaks from the intake gaskets either since they're a dry intake, only air comes through those. Those heater hose fittings on the Vortec 350s are brutal. They make special tools that come with a drill, tap etc to repair them quickly. If you don't have the tools it can be an aggravating process! You definitely run out of swear words doing that job.

Good they ditched those plastic nipples, had to replace them on two different vehicles with 350's, frustrating process no doubt.